Here are some new routes which have been added since the 2002 guide. Clogwyn yr Oen Red walls This collection of walls and slabs sits on the hillside between Clogwyn yr oen and Bustach and is characterised by compact red rock.There are two good routes here which start below the red slab just left of … Continue reading Moelwynnion Sports routes
Martin Crook discusses modern bouldering on his 7b power endurance problem, “Pump Station Zebra” in the Moelwyns. He gives some lovely insights in this interview with Steve Peake for Trek and Mountain, and touches on the intangible romance of the sport.
19 routes Mephistopheles, 7a The first bolted line in the main quarry on the white wall capped by a big ledge. Very steep with a tricky section in the blind groove. TT, 2010 Persephone, 6b+ The technical groove next right sharing the LO has some fine moves between good rests with a distinctly long reach for … Continue reading Moel y Gest Quarry, Tremadog
This excellent leaning sheet of rock faces south to the tower at Dolwyddelan from which it can be approached directly. An easier approach is to walk the track from the farm at Pont Rufenig that leads out through the yard, keep left at the first fork then after 1 Km the path ends at a … Continue reading Craig Ystimiau, Moel Siabod
A collection of slabs and walls above Cwm Teigl