Carreg Y Foel Gron Sports Routes

Carreg Y Foel Gron: OS 745 427 Upper Tier A good collection of faces ranging from 25m slabs to 12 m leaning cracks and arête. The larger south facing section is visible from the Ffestiniog to Penmachno road. Parking is by LLyn Dubach below the crag. A short stroll brings you to the main slabs. To … Continue reading Carreg Y Foel Gron Sports Routes

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Moelwynnion Sports routes

Here are some new routes which have been added since the 2002 guide. Clogwyn yr Oen Red walls This collection of walls and slabs sits on the hillside between Clogwyn yr oen and Bustach and is characterised by compact red rock.There are two good routes here which start below the red slab just left of … Continue reading Moelwynnion Sports routes

Fridd Farm Crag, Cwm Bychan

OS REF: 614304   Approach: Leave Llanfair village at sign “ Cwm Bychan 6 miles “.At 1.7 miles there is a right turn signed Cwm Bychan. At 0.8 miles there is a gap in the wall on the right and a track leading down to the Fridd farm. Park by the house then walk though the … Continue reading Fridd Farm Crag, Cwm Bychan

Clogau, Bontddu

CLOGAU:SH 676214 A long escarpment facing south west on the slopes of Clogau above the village of Bontddu on the Mawddach. Good quality high friction rock in an ideal (quiet!) setting. Approach: From Dolgellau take the Barmouth road to Bontddu. At the old hotel turn right and take the steep road up the hillside. After … Continue reading Clogau, Bontddu

New Climbing Guide to Central Wales. June 2018

The new Central Wales guidebook has just been published and contains all you need to know about this previously undocumented area between Machynlleth and Pembroke. The area has seen extensive development of bouldering, sea cliff climbing, bolted quarry routes and long pitches on remote mountain crags. It is incredibly well researched and documented with a … Continue reading New Climbing Guide to Central Wales. June 2018

“It’s a feeling”- Martin Crook on Bouldering in North Wales

Martin Crook discusses modern bouldering on his 7b power endurance problem, “Pump Station Zebra” in the Moelwyns. He gives some lovely insights in this interview with Steve Peake for Trek and Mountain, and touches on the intangible romance of the sport.

Moel y Gest Quarry, Tremadog

  19 routes  Mephistopheles, 7a The first bolted line in the main quarry on the white wall capped by a big ledge. Very steep with a tricky section in the blind groove. TT, 2010 Persephone, 6b+ The technical groove next right sharing the LO has some fine moves between good rests with a distinctly long reach for … Continue reading Moel y Gest Quarry, Tremadog

Llanuwchlyn

OS ref: 84923  28203 The Bala stones sit below the hillsdie at Cregiau LLwyn Gwern on the north side of the Bala to Dolgellau road. The nearest village is Llanuwchlyn. The crag above the boulders is easily spotted from the road and host a number of good routes up to E4. The large boulders can … Continue reading Llanuwchlyn

Supercollidor, an essay by Martin Crook

  "A forty minute walk in" he said, near Arennig Fawr. "Arennig Fawr" I said, already imaging dropping pothole deep into trackless wasteland in an area surely preserved for hardcore hillwalkers, outlaws of the honcho footpaths, stoics with massive calves, a plethora of stories regarding mist, knee injury, the ethics of ski poles and mobile … Continue reading Supercollidor, an essay by Martin Crook