Sunbeach Sports Routes

  Also known as Allens’s Sunbeach this is the large caravan park just south of LLwyngwril with a long pebble beach leading to a small sea cliff 400 metres south of the park. Access by parking on the beach but be aware the gates lock at 6pm . If staying later park just outside the … Continue reading Sunbeach Sports Routes


Fairbourne Sea Cliffs, Sports Routes

An extensive collection of cliffs running from the south end of Fairbourne beach to the village of LLwyngwril . Can be approached either way but is best from the village of LLwyngwril. Park at the layby nearest the village name plate on the north of the village and walk for 200 metres into the village. … Continue reading Fairbourne Sea Cliffs, Sports Routes

Pennal Quarry

Pennal Quarry (banned at present  but Elfyn Jones has been in touch with the farmer)   From right to left as you enter the quarry: Van Diemans Land (6c, 12.11.2008) The steep thin wall with technical climbing. TT JD Reflexological  (7a+,  20.11.2008) The left edge of this wall is very sustained with a difficult sequence at halfway. TT  The … Continue reading Pennal Quarry

Supercollidor, an essay by Martin Crook

  "A forty minute walk in" he said, near Arennig Fawr. "Arennig Fawr" I said, already imaging dropping pothole deep into trackless wasteland in an area surely preserved for hardcore hillwalkers, outlaws of the honcho footpaths, stoics with massive calves, a plethora of stories regarding mist, knee injury, the ethics of ski poles and mobile … Continue reading Supercollidor, an essay by Martin Crook

Sports routes in Llwyngwril

After some consideration and discussion with local climbers bolting of new routes began in the summer of 2009 at Llwyngwril Allens Sunbeach. The cliffs are of course tidal so great care should be taken with timetables : generally most walls are accessible 3-4 hours either side low tide on the north shore and 3 hours … Continue reading Sports routes in Llwyngwril

Dysynni Valley

Dysynni Valley has as its main crag the wonderful Bird Rock with a high concentration of good routes mainly on the Bastion. Col Crag on the same side of the valley  continues to be a very popular venue with outdoor groups due to easy access, a lovely meadow at its base and easily arranged belays … Continue reading Dysynni Valley

Craig Ystimiau, Moel Siabod

This excellent leaning sheet of rock faces south to the tower at Dolwyddelan from which it can be approached directly. An easier approach is to walk the track from the farm at Pont Rufenig that leads out through the yard, keep left at the first fork then after 1 Km the path ends at a … Continue reading Craig Ystimiau, Moel Siabod

Craig Ddu, Moel Siabod

Moel Siabod Craig Ddu Reference: 698539 New routes Craig ddu has three distinct sections, the left or south crag with easy slabs on its extreme left side and a wide grassy gully bounding its right northern end . The central section has the massive upper wall with the great leaning ( unclimbed ) prow in … Continue reading Craig Ddu, Moel Siabod