Martin Crook discusses modern bouldering on his 7b power endurance problem, “Pump Station Zebra” in the Moelwyns. He gives some lovely insights in this interview with Steve Peake for Trek and Mountain, and touches on the intangible romance of the sport.
An extensive collection of cliffs running from the south end of Fairbourne beach to the village of Llwyngwril can be approached either way but is best from the village of Llwyngwril. Park at the layby nearest the village name plate on the north of the village and walk for 200 metres into the village. At... Continue Reading →
OS ref: 84923 28203 The Bala stones sit below the hillsdie at Cregiau LLwyn Gwern on the north side of the Bala to Dolgellau road. The nearest village is Llanuwchlyn. The crag above the boulders is easily spotted from the road and host a number of good routes up to E4. The large boulders can... Continue Reading →
Llwyngwril north shore bouldering . OS SH 53978 BNG 10988 The small village of Llwyngwril lies on the A493 on the coast road from Dolgellau to Tywyn. The drive from Dolgellau is 15 minutes, from Tywyn ten minutes so from somewhere like Aberystwyth just over an hours drive. Boulder problems created by Gary Morgan ,... Continue Reading →
Dysynni Valley has as its main crag the wonderful Bird Rock with a high concentration of good routes mainly on the Bastion. Col Crag on the same side of the valley continues to be a very popular venue with outdoor groups due to easy access, a lovely meadow at its base and easily arranged belays... Continue Reading →
Although generally small and scattered the wonderful rock texture and the setting high on the hills over the Mawddach estuary make this a worthwhile venue. All the boulders are near parking, the longest walk is 5 minutes.
More sea washed stone that is powerful and slappy. By Llwyngwril in south Gwynedd there are many problems here from the dyamically small to the high ball that can be led with gear ...and many have .Bolted routes have also appeared here at around 10 metres or so on resin rings
This tidal venue offers great bouldering on clean, slopey rock. Care should be taken in some of the caves with friable holds on rotten bands; generally these are obvious to the eye. The landings are generally quite friendly but pebble shift can expose bare rock landings, a mat is definitely recommended. The pebble levels do... Continue Reading →
The campsite at Cae Du sits above a good small cliff that provides excellent bouldering, some lead routes and plenty of in-situ stakes for arranging top roping. The rock is a compact , water- washed boulder shale that tests slap and hold abilities . Tidal but accessible 10 hours of the 12 hour cycle .... Continue Reading →