Aberystwyth

Bouldering in the town has always been on the sea walls or in the nearby very tidal Clarach Bay (see the New Central Wales Guidebook 2018 ) In 2018 some hard new boulder problems were added to the north beach of Aberystwyth, mainly the non-tidal very low roof which has Fluffy Sheep in red graffiti … Continue reading Aberystwyth

Advertisements

“It’s a feeling”- Martin Crook on Bouldering in North Wales

Martin Crook discusses modern bouldering on his 7b power endurance problem, “Pump Station Zebra” in the Moelwyns. He gives some lovely insights in this interview with Steve Peake for Trek and Mountain, and touches on the intangible romance of the sport.

Llanuwchlyn

OS ref: 84923  28203 The Bala stones sit below the hillsdie at Cregiau LLwyn Gwern on the north side of the Bala to Dolgellau road. The nearest village is Llanuwchlyn. The crag above the boulders is easily spotted from the road and host a number of good routes up to E4. The large boulders can … Continue reading Llanuwchlyn

LLwyngwril north shore bouldering

LLwyngwril north shore bouldering . OS  SH 53978  BNG 10988 The small village of LLwyngwril lies on the A493 on the coast road from Dolgellau to Tywyn. The drive from Dolgellau is 15 minutes, from Tywyn ten minutes so from somewhere like Aberystwyth just over an hours drive. Boulder problems created by Gary Morgan , … Continue reading LLwyngwril north shore bouldering

Newgale beach

This tidal venue offers great bouldering on clean, slopey rock. Care should be taken in some of the caves with friable holds on rotten bands; generally these are obvious to the eye. The landings are generally quite friendly but pebble shift can expose bare rock landings, a mat is definitely recommended. The pebble levels do … Continue reading Newgale beach

Cae Du

The campsite at Cae Du sits above a good small cliff that provides excellent bouldering, some lead routes and plenty of in-situ stakes for arranging top roping. The rock is a compact , water- washed boulder shale that tests slap and hold abilities . Tidal but accessible 10 hours of the 12 hour cycle . … Continue reading Cae Du

Plynlimon

O.S. ref. 797893 Access: From the A487(T) Machynlleth to Aberystwyth road, turn off at Talybont and follow the mountain road, signposted Nant y Moch to the reservoir. Follow the road round the reservoir to the dam, then uphill; just after a cattle-grid turn left and follow another minor road towards Maesnant (O.S. ref 774881). Park … Continue reading Plynlimon