Carreg Y Foel Gron: OS 745 427 Upper Tier A good collection of faces ranging from 25m slabs to 12 m leaning cracks and arête. The larger south facing section is visible from the Ffestiniog to Penmachno road. Parking is by LLyn Dubach below the crag. A short stroll brings you to the main slabs. To... Continue Reading →
This old granite quarry runs along the hillside to the east of Blaenau high street and is approached by a 2 minute walk across open access land. There are two areas, the central quarried walls reach up to 50 meters high and contain a number of well bolted sport routes. The far right hand non quarried... Continue Reading →
Here are some new routes which have been added since the 2002 guide. Clogwyn yr Oen Red walls This collection of walls and slabs sits on the hillside between Clogwyn yr oen and Bustach and is characterised by compact red rock.There are two good routes here which start below the red slab just left of... Continue Reading →
OS ref 749 447 This long and impressive escarpment sits on the moors above Ffestiniog on the Penmachno road above three small lakes. Although one and half kilomatres long, it has rarely been visited by climbers over the years. In the 1980s Mel Griffiths and Martin Crook did a brief inspection and soloed some of... Continue Reading →
Badychain is the wall visible from Tan y Grisiau main street which faces south across the railway line. A short walk through a tunnel below the track drops you at the foot of the wall where there are now approx 30 sport routes ( several of which are still projects)
Martin Crook discusses modern bouldering on his 7b power endurance problem, “Pump Station Zebra” in the Moelwyns. He gives some lovely insights in this interview with Steve Peake for Trek and Mountain, and touches on the intangible romance of the sport.