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Mid-Wales Bouldering Videos

Great little edit of Martin Crook on "Game of Hones" And Tony Loxton on "a Whim and a Prayer" in the same area

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New Climbing Guide to Central Wales. June 2018

The new Central Wales guidebook has just been published and contains all you need to know about this previously undocumented area between Machynlleth and Pembroke. The area has seen extensive development of bouldering, sea cliff climbing, bolted quarry routes and long pitches on remote mountain crags. It is incredibly well researched and documented with a … Continue reading New Climbing Guide to Central Wales. June 2018

“It’s a feeling”- Martin Crook on Bouldering in North Wales

Martin Crook discusses modern bouldering on his 7b power endurance problem, “Pump Station Zebra” in the Moelwyns. He gives some lovely insights in this interview with Steve Peake for Trek and Mountain, and touches on the intangible romance of the sport.

Moel y Gest Quarry, Tremadog

  19 routes  Mephistopheles, 7a The first bolted line in the main quarry on the white wall capped by a big ledge. Very steep with a tricky section in the blind groove. TT, 2010 Persephone, 6b+ The technical groove next right sharing the LO has some fine moves between good rests with a distinctly long reach for … Continue reading Moel y Gest Quarry, Tremadog

Fairbourne Sea Cliffs, Sports Routes

An extensive collection of cliffs running from the south end of Fairbourne beach to the village of LLwyngwril . Can be approached either way but is best from the village of LLwyngwril. Park at the layby nearest the village name plate on the north of the village and walk for 200 metres into the village. … Continue reading Fairbourne Sea Cliffs, Sports Routes

Pennal Quarry

Pennal Quarry (banned at present  but Elfyn Jones has been in touch with the farmer)   From right to left as you enter the quarry: Van Diemans Land (6c, 12.11.2008) The steep thin wall with technical climbing. TT JD Reflexological  (7a+,  20.11.2008) The left edge of this wall is very sustained with a difficult sequence at halfway. TT  The … Continue reading Pennal Quarry

Llanuwchlyn

OS ref: 84923  28203 The Bala stones sit below the hillsdie at Cregiau LLwyn Gwern on the north side of the Bala to Dolgellau road. The nearest village is Llanuwchlyn. The crag above the boulders is easily spotted from the road and host a number of good routes up to E4. The large boulders can … Continue reading Llanuwchlyn

Supercollidor, an essay by Martin Crook

  "A forty minute walk in" he said, near Arennig Fawr. "Arennig Fawr" I said, already imaging dropping pothole deep into trackless wasteland in an area surely preserved for hardcore hillwalkers, outlaws of the honcho footpaths, stoics with massive calves, a plethora of stories regarding mist, knee injury, the ethics of ski poles and mobile … Continue reading Supercollidor, an essay by Martin Crook

Sports routes in Llwyngwril

After some consideration and discussion with local climbers bolting of new routes began in the summer of 2009 at Llwyngwril Allens Sunbeach. The cliffs are of course tidal so great care should be taken with timetables : generally most walls are accessible 3-4 hours either side low tide on the north shore and 3 hours … Continue reading Sports routes in Llwyngwril