Rhobell Fawr, Trad climbing

Western walls: SH 792247

Elevation: 1459 ft

Composed of a wide spread of small walls and edges the rock is the usual high friction good quality Rhobell type, the aspect south and the view magnificent. The far west wall commands a fabulous view down across the Mawddach.

Approach:

Drive as for main crag and after passing through the third (this one wooden) gate continue through the forest to the first left hand exit. Follow this for 500 metres to where the road turns sharp left and park by the  thin track which goes right to below the visible walls. Take the thin track through a small gate below the crag. Directly in front is a shield with one route. Below the shield a  farm track contours leftwards to below the western walls . To get to the far west walls walk up the open gulley on the left of the western walls, cross a stone wall and continue across the hillside  contouring directly westward until the very small far west wall comes into view on the skyline, about 15 minutes from the car. 

 Far west wall

This  is a small isolated escarpment, the main value of which is the panoramic view and the sunny aspect. The routes are again on the best possible rock but only reach 8 meters at their highest and are ideal for a bit of soloing ( or/and  a family picnic ).

From left to right.

1. Wave Rider :  8 m, Very Severe 4b, 17.8.2009

An easy solo up the lovely clean slab on the left .

Terry Taylor solo

2. Angle play: 8m, Hard Severe 4b, 17.8.2009

Next right is another very good, if short, slab bounded by a grassy corner on its left .Romp up the slim groove in the centre of the slab to a finishing crux.

Terry Taylor solo

3.Lost cause 6m, E1 6a, 20.6.2012

Technical corner climbing .

Terry Taylor solo

4.Rock and shine  6m, E1 6a, 17.8.2009

Take the lovely compact wall direct with a possible cam placement up and left .

Terry taylor solo

5.Thick trick  8m, Severe 4b, 17.8.2009

The crack up the wall left of the big perched flake leads to the ledge and the short wall above. Disjointed .

Terry Taylor, Aoife Taylor, Cian Taylor

6.Progeny 8 m, Moderate, 17.8.2009

Up the stepped wall below the flake, then behind the flake and up the slab.

Terry Taylor, Aoife Taylor, Cian Taylor

Generation Rap 8 m, HVS 5b, 17.8.2009

This is the pillar and the crack on the right side of the escarpment. An easy stepped approach leads to the crack in the pillar. Some hard moves above lead directly to an easy finish.

Terry Taylor, Aoife Taylor

The west walls

These are about 300 metres left of the obvious shield (Bog Spawn) directly above the small gate on the approach walk. On the right of these west walls is a reddish slab while up the hill just to its left is a white broken wall with a horizontal hawthorn tree down and left of  a blind groove. To the  left of the tree is a slim wall and left again a white rib.

7.One for the Road 8m, E2 5c, 14.6.2008

Go direct up to the rib  past a slim horizontal crack . Pinches and layaways lead to an easier finish.

Terry Taylor 

Between the rib and the tree is a short vertical face with a vertical crack in its top half.

8.Psychic Delick   8 m, E1 5b, 6.10.2007

Start at the left toe of the face and follow the finger ramp which leads to the crack . Difficulties and gear placements increase to the top.

Terry Taylor

9.Cloacal Kiss  E4 6a, 8m, 14.6.2008

The groove up and right of the bent tree is protected by a short roof. Use the deep crack to its right to somehow enter the groove. Good Rock 1 hard to place from a fierce layback in the groove. Struggle directly upwards trying to stay attached to gain an easier finish up a thin crack. 

Terry Taylor

West walls Red slabs  A very good groove forms the left edge of the slabs while an obvious recess bounds the right edge.


10.Whose beer is it anyway?  12 m, Hard Severe 4b, 06.10.2007

The excellent groove on the  left  provides pleasant climbing all the way 

( an ancient beer bottle was discovered buried in the grass on the plateau above ) 

Terry Taylor

11.The Big Blue 12 m,  E2 5c, 06.10.2007

The steep slabby wall next right has a smaller left facing recess low down. Go directly up into the recess then get good good gear in the crack above  before bridging and scurrying directly up to a decent hold. Easy layaways up the flake edge above lead to the top.

Terry Taylor

12.Nothing but Blue sky   12 m, E1 5b, 06.10.2007

The blank looking slabby wall above the recess on the right is generous with good positive edges. Pull up into the recess and gain the good layaway leading directly up. The wall above feels run out but gets easier all the way. 

Terry Taylor 

Bog Spawn  10 m, HVS 5a, 25.12.2007

The red shield directly in front of the gate on the approach track  is the only line on this buttress. Pull up onto the ledge below the shield and finish with finesse onto the domed top above the shield.

Terry Taylor, Del Taylor (a Christmas day special)

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