Bird Rock (Craig Aderyn) New Traditional Line

Bird Rock ( Craig aderyn )is in the Dysynni valley by Tywyn, south Meirionnydd

This new addition is to the right of the Bastion:

American Girl E3 6a 21.7.12

  1. 15m. Scrabble around or climb the dark overhung wall to belay at the large grass ledge below the short steep wall.
  2. 20m. Begin at the base of the slab below the two oak trees. Take the wall direct to finish at the niche/ledge on the top right of the wall, with good size 1 and 3 wire placements at mid height. Continue easily to the grass terrace and belay.

Dan Commander + Scott Esnouf

Incestial Lust, E1 5b, 45m 11.8.12

A line which links The Diagonal, North Face Girdle and The Bolero to give fine well protected climbing in a dramatic position.

Start 2m left of the stile from a boulder and patch of reeds. Head directly up the crack/groove to the large ledge on The Diagonal continue following this route until you are above the obvious spike and level with the two rusty pegs on the left wall. Arrange protection and brake left across and up to the V in-cut and niche below the overhang (underside of The Bolero slab), pull up and right over the overhang to a welcome rest on The Bolero slab. Follow The Bolero to the hollow flake in the V groove (where The Bolero goes left up the narrow slabby ledge to join Systems of Romance). Head right here up the delicate right trending gangway until its possible to gain a crimp in the middle of the blank wall on the left, delicate moves follow to good holds and the top.

Dan Commander + Scott Esnouf

mat thompson on the Diamond Bird Rock-2.jpg
Matt Thompson on the Diamond, Bird Rock

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