Allen’s Sunbeach, Llwyngwril: Guide to Sports Routes

 

Also known as Allens’s Sunbeach this is the large caravan park just south of LLwyngwril with a long pebble beach leading to a small sea cliff 400 metres south of the park. Access by parking on the beach but be aware the gates lock at 6pm . If staying later park just outside the gate. This is all private land for parking but to date the park has been very good at allowing visitors whether climbers or not.

Water washed smooth rock generally forms the starts of all routes, bouldering trad lines and sport routes included.

The sport lines are from north to south

Passionate bright young things, 6b

The first line up the centre of the  steep slab and overlap is bolted just as you need it . Top out to a single bolt LO. TT 2009

Delicatessen 6b

Although the start may seep a little the critical holds often remain dry : sustained on very small edges, TT 2009

Project

Entropy, 6c+

The rising right to left line of the overhanging black wall is sustained to the DBLO, TT 2009

Flicked chip causes fracas in kebab shop, 6a

The first of this trio of routes on the slab in fallen arch zawn  goes direct up the left hand side, TT 2010

The beckoning, 6a+

The central line has some hard moves passing the second bolt, TT 2010

Siren, 6b

The best and longest line starting low on the right and taking a line of good edges  moving up and leftwards to the top, TT 2010

Black Arabesque, 7a +

The compelling line up the centre of the black wall in the next zawn. Boulder easily up the ledge down and right of the wall then use a jug undercut to swing out left to join the line of bolts. TT 2009

Project

Under an alien sun, 6b

This groove was originally a trad line on next to no gear at E3 5c ( TT 1993 ) but is now a good sports route with the crux the last move! TT  2009

Great wall, 6b

As it says an excursion up the short  slab on the far south walls which is tragically all too short, TT 2010

Delusions of grandeur, 6b+

The better right hand line with some very thin moves pass the second bolt but again all too short, GM 2010

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