Pennal Quarry: Guide to Traditional Routes

Pennal Quarry (banned at present  but Elfyn Jones has been in touch with the farmer)

 

From right to left as you enter the quarry:

Van Diemans Land (6c, 12.11.2008)

The steep thin wall with technical climbing. TT JD

Reflexological  (7a+,  20.11.2008)

The left edge of this wall is very sustained with a difficult sequence at halfway. TT 

The next 2 routes are on the wall 30 metres further left

Pennal Colony  (6b+, 8.11.2008)

The right hand line with the crux at the top . Step left to the shared LO.TT JD

Pennal Servitude (6a+, 8.11.2008)

The easier left hand line takes the excellent ramp to gain the LO high on the final short slab. TT JD

Next left are two steep lines sharing a LO:

Pennalty Flaws  (7a+, 1.6.2009)

The right hand line starts easily enough then hard moves lead up and right to a strenuous sequence through the clean wall to gain the ledge . Finish leftwards to the LO. TT

Pennal Code  (6c, 1.6.2009)

The left hand line saves the interest for the sequence of moves gaining the ledge just below the LO. TT

Next left is the big pillar:

Thrust to the Future (6a, 4.7.2009)

Gain the ledge below the front wall of the pillar and take the centre of the wall with sustained interest above to the shared LO.TT, GA

Shoulder Dystopia (6b,  12.6.2009)

The left hand corner of the pillar  gets increasingly difficult with the best saved ’til last. TT, GA

The largest wall of all sits at the head of the quarry and reaches 30 metres:

Aretenophobia (7b+, 20/8/2009)

The resin bolted arête down and left of the roof has a particularly difficult start before easing slightly just below the LO  FA : G. A

Project 

One of the most promising lines taking a direct route up the left hand side of the wall remains a project 

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