Moel y Gest Quarry, Tremadog: Guide to Traditional Routes

 

19 routes 

Mephistopheles, 7a

The first bolted line in the main quarry on the white wall capped by a big ledge. Very steep with a tricky section in the blind groove. TT, 2010

Persephone, 6b+

The technical groove next right sharing the LO has some fine moves between good rests with a distinctly long reach for a jug at the top of the groove.TT,MC, March 2011

Dr Faustus, 7a

The slim groove next right saves its main challenge for the last move, TT 2009

Kiss of the Yogini, 6c

The central box quarry behind the winding wheel has this on its left hand side : a boulder problem start then easier climbing to the chain LO. TT, MC 2010

Fat groove slim, 6b

The narrow groove next right has a hard start and a hard finish. MC, TT  2010

Tantric skull feeder, 6c

A test of stamina as the holds are generous and good until near the top. TT, MC 2010

Project next right  awaits first ascent. The final quarry has the following lines: 

Intersex Olympics, 6c

Intricate demanding climbing up the left of the first slab on the left. TT,MC 2010

Flaskdance, 6a +

This which was  the first bolted line in the quarry   takes the right edge of the slab up the groove with a wicked step left to the shared LO. MC,TT, MG 2009

Necroscopic invaders, 6a 

The longer and better groove next right shares the first two bolts with Flaskdance  the continues up and right for some distance. MC 2010

Love Dolls never die, 6b+ 

The excellent arête next right is gained via some hard initial moves onto the steep short slab. TT, MC 2010

Spandexterity, 7a

The next route right starts from the big ledge which is gained by an easy scramble. The almost holdless and blind groove is hard to enter but gets easier once there. TT 2010

Feats don’t fail me now, 6b+

The obvious corner next right requires deft footwork to pass the first two bolts. TT,MC 2010

The far right slabs are 22 metres high and have 7 good quality lines on excellent non –quarried compact white slabs 

The Jain Path, 6b

The left hand line up a crack to gain the easy angled slab. TT, MC 2010

Nirvana, 6b+

Next right is a groove with some tricky moves to enter after which easier slab climbing leads up and right. TT, MC 2010

Planet gest, 6a

The original line up the central groove past the overlap then curls leftwards before traversing back right to the shared LO. MC, TT 2009

Call me Jim, 6b+

The line next right goes direct to the overlap . Once through make hard moves up the thin slabby wall above. TT, MC, RW 2010

Freak on a leash, 6c

Next right the climbing is even thinner with a good series of moves leading to the ledge . Above the holds get smaller and good footwork is essential. TT, MC 2009

Live by the sword, 6a

The final two routes share a start and the LO : the left hand has a pleasant crux. TT, MC, AN

Die by the sword, 6b

The right hand line has some demanding thin climbing going up and right. TT, MC 2010

TT: Terry Taylor, GM: Gary Morgan, JD:James Dexter, GA:Goi Ashmore, AN:Andy Newton, RW: Ray Wood, MG:Mel Griffiths, MC: Martin Crook 

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