Fairbourne Beach Sea Cliffs: Bouldering Guide

An extensive collection of cliffs running from the south end of Fairbourne beach to the village of Llwyngwril can be approached either way but is best from the village of Llwyngwril. Park at the layby nearest the village name plate on the north of the village and walk for 200 metres into the village. At a house called Wendy’s, a small gate opens onto a path leading down to the beach.

The first wall reached is only tiny but is a good warm up while waiting for the tide to recede:

Snap Cackle Pop

Left hand to LO 6a

Direct to LO 6b

Right hand to LO 6a+

TT GM

Continue northwards along the boulder beach  to the first “ proper “ route

Flogging a Dead Honkey, 7a

The lovely golden wall provides an entertaining challenge especially gaining the first hold off the beach! TT

The next routes are on the next bay north

Hang em high, 6a

A good warm up leading to the DB LO. TT, GM 2009

Date for a hanging, 6c+

Hard start to gain the good ledge up and left. GM, 2009

Josie wales7a 

The perplexing very short groove once entered eases above. GM TT both led  2009

Jesse James6b

The short slab route leading to the shared DB LO . GM TT both led 2009

Once upon a time in the west, 7a

The first of a good pair of hard steep lines with most of the difficulties on the first third of the wall. TT 2009

Mŵs pius, 7a

A ferocious start laybacking a thin edge leads to easier wall climbing above to the shared DB LO. TT  2010

Outlaw, 6c

Short fingery climbing up the lovely black wall. GM 2009

Pirates of the Cambrian, V+

The easier angled groove lust left to shared DB LO 

GM 2009

Guns and poses, 7a+

This last pair of routes is on the white steep wall next left. Start on the right via a layback crack then follow the imaginary ramp up left to the overlap: pull through and gain a handrail level with the  LO before stepping left to the DB LO. TT 2010

The dark side of the mŵs, 6c+

Perhaps sparsely bolted ( by some reckoning )  this is a direct line up the scalloped wall to the LO with difficulties increasing with height. TT 2009

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