Dysynni Valley: Guide to Traditional Routes

Dysynni Valley has as its main crag the wonderful Bird Rock with a high concentration of good routes mainly on the Bastion.

Col Crag on the same side of the valley  continues to be a very popular venue with outdoor groups due to easy access, a lovely meadow at its base and easily arranged belays above the 10 meter high slabs. After over 30 years of visitors the rock is a little polished in place particularly on the far left which is the main abseil exercise spot (down the E2 ).

There are several  newly developed areas of similar nature in the valley plus additions to the right side of the Bastion

Llanllwyda, Dysynni Valley  ref:646083

Above the caravan site of Llanllwyda just east of Bird Rock are two buttresses on the hilltop ,the very small  summit one is  facing west back down the valley, the other larger  lower one on the right side of the hilltop facing up the valley. The approach is through the campsite , across a field and up the wide track zig-zaging up the hill all the way to the top. The summit  buttress is then approached up a  short incline after passing through the gate on the track.

A domed slab sits down and right of the short,steep upper face . Two lines at V Diff, a direct on the left to the top of the dome , the other up the slab on  the right to the top . The upper face is bounded on the left by a grassy gulley  Just right is a clean , compact  shield of rock . Right of this  is:

Ever decreasing Circles  (E1 5b, 8 m)

The capped corner in the center of the wall starts easily until a swing out and right onto the nose raises some hairs. Finish up the open corner above .TT.

A small place   (E2 5c, 8 m)

The narrow groove at the right end of the wall is hard to start but leads steadily and directly upwards past secret holds and obvious gear slots .

TT

Main crag

Sitting on the hillside above the caravan park of the same name and approached by walking through the site and taking the steep zig-zag track up the hill  the crag has two sections an upper and lower .Leave the track when just below the crag and pass rightwards over the wall between two evergreens. The upper face is now in view  with an obvious slab split by a crack.

Carry on crowing  (VS 4c, 10 m)

Go up to the ledge below the crack. Steep and safe. GM GM
Easy slab  (V.diff, 8 m)

Just right is a broken crack the right edge of which is taken to the top.

Next right is a big step in the face with a smaller east facing wall on the ledge above

Bird boneyard  (HVS 5a, 10 m)

The thrilling little groove and crack in the face. TT MF
The  face to the right (east facing ) has a deep unclimbed  crack in its left side. Then to the right  is  a rising discontinuous left to right crack the full height of the face .

Boot, Bollock and Bite HVS (5a,15m 22.3.2009)

Start at the foot of the crack and follow it to the roof . Traverse right with some challenge to reach the crackline which continues to the top.

TT MF ( Ireland win the Rugby Grand Slam using the advice of their coach to use “ boot, bollock and bite “)

Dyed in the pull  (E1 5b, 10 m,  8/5/2005)

Next right is a large flake boulder with a niche in the face opposite. Step up into the niche then pull up and rightwards on small holds heading for the superb diagonal crack above: enter the crack and enjoy the ride to the top. Large cams protect. TT MF

Reciever of Swollen Goods (E2 5c, 10 m, 14/5/2005)

Starts just 2 meters right below a thin seam heading up and rightwards . Lovely small edges lead up past a good microwire to the overlap. From the right side of this a very good crack leads back up leftwards and the easy finishing moves. TT MF

One Swallow doesn’t make a Slimmer (E1 5b, 10 m, 8/5/2005)

Begin by pulling up on good undercuts 2 meters left of the right hand edge of this face . The undercuts lead strenuously to a big jug up and right. From here pull up direct then use the right edge of the face to continue to the top.TT MF

Don’t Blame it on the Crows 10m E1 5b (18.6.2014)

The right-hand arête of the east face. Start at a small rowan, and layback the left-hand side of the arête to easier climbing at half height. No gear – hence the E1 grade. FA: MJC (solo)

Lower tier

The fierce looking bulging face  is unclimbed. Just right is a groove.

Budgie Rock (HVS 5a, 15 m, 23/4/2005)

From the left a ramp leads back rightwards in to the groove which is then followed steadily directly to the top.TT

Craig y Coed behind Dyshefin farm  O.S ref: 642079

This white leaning buttress can be clearly seen above the forest behind Dysefin farm. This is south facing , good quality rock with a great panorama.

Approach : Through Llanllwyda caravan park and up the zig-zag track to the gate . Pass through a smaller gate 3 meters down and left and go directly down to the stream. Cross the water and head directly up the hill to the shallow col. Once at the col the top of the crag can be seen about 300 meters away to the west.
From left to right .

Willy Wonka’s Wall (Very Difficult, 10 m, 27/8/2005)

The well pocketed and clean slab on the left edge of the complex is taken direct up its center to a thinning section just below the heather top out.TT, AT, CT

Easy deep left wrdas slanting crack

Parallel thin seam

Parallel very steep deep crack E2 5c

Wide crack

Stone Ogre Grotto (HVS 5a, 18 m, 13.7.2005)

The main central section has a white shield of rock with a deep diagonal crack on its left side. Take the crack up leftwards until a pull out right onto a good ledge . Step back out left onto the leaning wall and take a line of amazing jugs up leftwards until it’s possible to pull directly upwards on to the left edge of the hanging slab . Follow this edge easily to the top.TT  solo

Domo the Angel of Silence (VS 4c, 18m, 13/7/2005)

Take the crack to the ledge as above then pull up into the open V-groove forming  the right edge of the hanging slab : Take a  leftwards rising line to the top of the slab.TT.

Ellamentary (E2/3 6a, 18m, 15/7/2005)

The white shield has some good sharp pockets in its right side. Start below and just right of a small overlap. Feel the immediate drain and strain as you continue slapping up  with the right hand for small  positive edges. The difficulties quickly ease once the ledge is gained. Pull up into the V groove and go directly up clean rock just  left of the garden in the groove. G. Morgan, TT

Dying for the Pose (VS 4c, 18m,15/7/2005)

The open groove next right is steep and intricate to start before it’s possible to step up and out onto its right edge . Follow the easy ridge directly above .GM, TT
There is a small domed slabby crag 5 metres to the right of the main crag

Warhammer (Very Dificult, 9m, 2/6/2006)

The wall on the right side of this slab has a good sustained section directly up on good quality rock with good interest at this grade. TT. AT CRT

Craig Tyn Y Cornel   ref: 634080

On the same contour line as Coed y graig and about 200 meters west it is easier to approach from the cottage of Tyn y Cornel at the back of the Peniarth Uchaf forest. Parking for 1 car is possible just before the cottage on a deep layby. Follow the footpath behind the cottage over a stile and up to a field. Break off rightwards and go diagonally up the field until the face comes into view. The left side of the face is a broken leaning wall bounded on the right by a steep arête.

Asphyxiophilia (E1 5b 12 m, 7/1/2006)

Start at the base of the leftwards tending ramp running along the arête:thin and committing to start it leads steadily up to a large flake below the higher wall . Pull up rightwards onto this wall just by a sapling and finish direct.TT

Trail of smears (E3 5c 12 m, 15.1.2006)

An excellent steep line just right of above . Start below the hanging grove and ascend direct to a good undercut block on the left . Fingery and strenuous sequences lead directly up until a final pull up rightwards . Follow the easy angled heather to the top.TT

Flaking it (E2 5c 12 m, 15.1.2006)

The open groove and ramp next right .Start just right of the stone wall and hand traverse leftwards on the ramp to the bottom of the groove . Rock up awkwardly and take the grove direct until it is possible to romp up the lovely clean hanging slab on the left .Step left at the top of the slab to avoid a flake.TT

Spring in the String (E2 5c,12 m, 05.05.2006)

Start as above but from the start of the ramp pull up rightwards to a good crack . Pull up directly then step left on the big ledge below the headwall . Layaway up the cobbled streak in the right of the headwall. TT

The eastern walls of Craig Tyn y Cornel

Small at only 10-12 metres this clean cut stand alone face sits on the hillside 400 metres or so east of the main buttress and faces south across the valley. From left to right

Diamond Dogs (HVS 5a, 12 m, 21.3.2007)

Start by the large flake resting against the foot of the left side of the wall . Romp to the top of the flake and step off its pinnacle rightwards onto the face . Good positive holds lead directly up just left of a small niche . There is a belay spike several metres back. TT solo

The Ever Circling Skeletal Family (E3 5b, 12 m, 21.3.2007)

Start 4 metres next right above a very small flake at the foot of the face .Pull up directly with a short hard section to gain the easier angled wall above . Continue direct passing the small niche by its right edges.TT solo

Golden Years (E3 5b, 10 m, 21.3.2007)

Takes the leaning orangey wall 4m next right . Go up the easy steps below the wall then take good jugs directly up until just below the top . Pull out left past a good cam placement and rock up onto the top ledge. TT solo

Viva Suarez! (E5 5c, 12m, 19.6.2014)

A jug-fest; well not quite – there are a couple of hard long moves and (in common with the routes to the left) a fall would be terryfying and highly unwise. It blasts up the steep wall in the right-hand side of the face. Start on a grassy pedestal 3m right of Golden Years under a shallow slight yellow groove. Gain twin finger-jugs at 4m and stretch for an open pocket. Deeper pockets above lead to a bulge. Ignore the large and weak flakes above and left, and instead span diagonally right across the bulge for a hidden (well, just great!) finger-flake. Pull round the bulge on jugs and exit onto heather. Well done.FA: MJC (solo, after top roping)

Craig Ysgiog  LLanfairhangel y Pennant

The north facing wall on the south side of the river above the village. Park in the village or as far up the road as you can . Walk up the road through a gate then go over the stile on the right that leads down to  a FB over the river . The crag sits on the hill above .

Out in the Cold (E1 5b, 15 m,10/2/2008)

A good line up the groove right of the overlaps. Takes steady pleasant climbing with some interesting intensity at the mid point . It eases again above to a direct finish. TT

Welcome to my Padded Cell (E2 5b,15m 5/5/2008)

A steep and enjoyable pitch through the overlaps . Start below the first roof and pull through its right end before stepping back left . The roof above is taken through its centre to huge holds which lead easily and directly to the top.TT

Thunderclouds (E2 5b, 15 m, 11/5/2008)

The groove in the left hand face is approached easily and directly . Bridge up the groove trending right to a very good horizontal slot . Pull overt then trend upwards and leftwards via a good flake system to an easy finish. TT

Craig Aderyn Far east buttress

At the extreme left of the huge cormorant endowed walls of Bird rock is a steep gulley with what appears to be a small buttress on its left edge precariously perched on the very steep hillside. Best approached as for Col Crag then contour the hillside to the foot of the wall.

Eastern Promises (E5 6a,18 m, 24/4/2008)

The white groove leading to the short overlap is steep and strenuous with spaced gear.Take the overlap on its right to the good ledge .Make a hard step up left onto the clean ledge below the leaning headwall . A sustained fierce sequence of moves leads  directly up to some good finishing jugs . Rocks 3-5 protect. TT

Craig aderyn far right side

This is the battered collection of broken tiers on the hillside west of the Bird Rock Bastion and above and behind Ty Coch. Park by the barn on the roadside 50 metres  west  of the Bastion of Bird Rock .Walk leftwards up the hillside past a big holly tree  until below a tall narrow buttress split by a groove and crowned by a slab above which is a grassy ledge

Tailblazer (HVS 5a, 18 m, 12/5/2006)

Enter the groove directly and easily. As the angle steepens the protection improves and protects the stiff finish of the wall onto some steps to gain the slab . Enjoy the centre of the slab directly to the grass ledge and belay. TT

Presence for Christmas (E2 5b, 16 m, 25/12/2005)

Just right of the groove is a slim wall . Start directly below this wall and step up onto a ledge . Good holds lead directly up the steepening wall to a very long reach for a high jug up and right . Continue direct on easier ground the continue up the centre of the final slab. TT

Tearaway  (HVS 5a, 18 m, 12/5/2006)

Start 3 metres right of the central prow on this section  and go directly up the steepening wall. Once the slab above is gained finish direct.TT
The other 2 routes on the terraces are up and right of the barn on a red streaked slabby wall 14 metres high.The  wall sits on the second tier above the barn and is best approached via the easy slopes to the right then contour back left

Red Rain  (HVS 5a, 14 metres, 22.11.2005)

Begin  in the niche on the right .Leave this to follow the thin seam directly above.Pull left onto the red wall and follow it direct to the steep finish . Lovely slabby rock .TT

Infinite Reality (HVS 5a  14 metres 22.11.2005)

Start just left below an incut ledge which is 2 metres above the ground.Gain the ledge and continue up and leftwards to a longer ledge . From here take the centre of the final slabby wall above to finish steeply. Perfect protection on excellent rock. TT

Craig Aderyn near right walls

.

Freds climb (HVS 5a, 90m, 29/8/2010)

1.) 30m. 5a. The first pitch of Curly Fringe Frown, but continue to belay at the obvious oak trees

2.) 20m. 5a. Start from the two handed jug on the wall next to the right hand tree (VS if a high runner is placed in the tree). Head out to gain a good side pull on a flake, followed by a delicate pull over to a ledge. Difficulty eases for the rest of the pitch on good rock heading for the right of the fence. cross the fence at the back wall to spike and nut belay below the obvious arete.

3.) 40m 4b. Climb past the spike and onto the large ledge right of the arete. Head out and climb the arete and continue to the low angled slab. Climb this to the top and a block and nut belay.

FA. D.Commander,S. Esnouf

Owen to Strength (E1 5c, 50m, 21/8/2010)

1.)30m. 5a. The first pitch of curly fringe frown is a good warm up for the pitch, take it to belay at the oak trees.

2.)20m. The route starts 2 metres right of the tree, between a white streak running down the wall and a leftwards trending crack (small nut placement and RP’s). Getting of the ground is awkward once done head up to the right to gain the small V groove above with side pull and jug at the top.

FA. D.Commander,S.Esnouf

 Stile Direct (HVS 5a,  22/8/2010)

(1) 5a. Start just to the right of the stile head directly up the wall passing to the left of the pedestal of the bolero and then heading up and right of the z piton aiming for the main ledge two thirds of the way up the wall. belay here.
(2) 5a. Climbs the main pillar of rock between the top pitch of Birdcage and the Bolero. Start on the left of the ledge below a small undercut block, head up and right towards the small left trending crack, just to the right of the main V cleft that cuts the centre of the pillar. Begin traversing left past the V cleft and onto the small wall on the left side of the pillar and taking this direct to the top.

D.Commander ,S.Esnouf

Tap Fridd Wyndo: OS GR 678117

height about 10 metres :left to right the routes are :
1- Midnight Lightning 4b, Adam Hughes, 16/6/03

2- Fussy Freddy’s Flake, HS 4b, Robin Goodlad, 16/6/03

3- The Chasm, HS 4b, Robin Goodlad, 16/6/03

4- The peapod, HS 4b,   Paul Poole, 16/6/03

5- Seven Nation Army, VS 4b, Adam Hughes, 16/6/03

6-   Hotel Yoba HS 4b, Adam Hughes, 16/6/03
8-   Campbell’s Climb, HS 4a, Adam Hughes, 16/6/03, solo

9-   Moss-kill groove direct, VS 5a, Robin Goodlad, 16/6/03

10- Moss-kill Groove, S 4, Robin Goodlad, 16/6/03

Cregennan Lake

The pumice stone. A perfect leaning shield of high friction rock between the north shores of the western lake and the summit of the hill. South facing and 5 minutes from the parking.

Promises, Pumices (E3 6a, 7m, 27/7/2007)

This is the direct line up the centre . A Rock 4 at the right end of the small overlap at mid height protects the exquisite moves that lead up to the very good finishing holds. TT

You Pumiced me the World (E1 5b, 7m, 27.7.2007)

There is a good face forming the right half of the wall . Take the centre of this on good holds, TT solo

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