Craig Ystimiau, Moel Siabod: Guide to Traditional Routes

This excellent leaning sheet of rock faces south to the tower at Dolwyddelan from which it can be approached directly. An easier approach is to walk the track from the farm at Pont Rufenig that leads out through the yard, keep left at the first fork then after 1 Km the path ends at a gate and a turnaround area, from here contour northwards for 1 Km and the crag come into view.

There are 3 sections: the left face which is 15 meter leaning wall with a striking central groove: the middle section which is an open groove at over 20 meters and the right end of the complex which is the dark bulging brow split by a prominent crack.

craig_y_stimau_
Craig y Stimiau Topo

Left wall :

The left end of this wall is marked by a large pedestal with a narrow  gap behind:

Pedestal Crack    (HVS 5b,  12 m,1/8/2004)

Wriggle up the narrow gap to the pedestal top from which a difficult step right on to the face gains a crack . A short, hard sequence above leads with effort to an easier finishing crack. P Jenkinson, T Taylor.
 
Elfs Crack  (E4 6a, 12 m,1/8/2004)
A desperate perfect crack runs  up the wall 2 meters right of above .A small ledge at 2 meters height allows you to enter the jamming crack which is fought steadily right to the top. E . Jones, T Taylor, P Jenkinson.

Just right again is a striking thin crack( unclimbed !) then the left edge of the open groove:

Elens Groove    (E2 5c, 15 m, 27/6/2004)
A perfect contortionist line , well protected , perplexing and with plenty of those “udging” moves. P. Jenkinson, M Davies, T.Taylor.

Next right is an open wall with an incipient crack then a rib

Janjaweed   (E4/5  6a , 12 m,1/8/2004)

Good open climbing with just enough protection on the rib. Start up the right side of the rib then pull up and left to a thin horizontal break: just above this is a deeper break for gear then a powerful and long reach up the rib may gain a sloping edge which is the key to continuing : eases directly above. P. Jenkinson, E.Jones, T.Taylor.

 
Overheated (HVS 5a, 9m, 9/7/2005)
Next right is a pedestal  which has a thin seam in its right side .Go directly up this to top of pedestal than pull up right onto the high ledge . Finish up straight up onto heather.
TT,PJ,D Lampard ( a scorching day  required submergence in the stream)

Giant Steps are what we take  (E2 5b,10 m, 27/6/2004)

The right end of the wall has an open corner with several stepped ledges .A good warm up . Finish rightwards at the top. T .Taylor . M . Davies, P. Jenkinson.

 
Lickalotopus   (E2 5b, 8 m,1/8/2004)
The short arête bounding the right end of the wall. Start just right of the corner and follow the arête slightly leftwards to a good ledge. Finish up the centre of the wall above.
T.Taylor,P. jenkinson

Middle section

The next buttress to the right has a good left wards ramp and a clean open corner.

Away from the Small Stones (E2  5b, 20 m, 3/9/2005)

The left facing wall to the left of the central ramp is split by a crack in its upper section.Start just down and right of the crack and trend easily up left wards to the ledge below a short leaning V-groove. A couple of welcome spikes help gain the next ledge. Follow the crack above to a small ledge below a lovely juggy headwall. Belay 20 meters back on huge boulder.
T Taylor, P. Jenkinson

How was it for  ewe?   (Hard Severe 4b, 22 m, 1/8/2004)

Gain the ramp from just below and left of the toe  of the ramp via the short steep wall : stroll easily up the ramp leftwards to its end and a stepped easy angled wall above . Finishes direct at the top.
T Taylor, E Jones , P Jenkinson

Ramtastic!  (HVS 5b   18 m, 1/8/2004)
The good open corner is a delight : Gain the start of the ramp as above then step right into the steep corner . Good protection and good moves lead steadily and directly to the top.
P. Jenkinson, T. Taylor, E. Jones

Right end

The final right  end of the crag has the impressive 25 meter  prow.

Regression to the Mean  (E5 6b  25 m, 3/9/2005)
A phenomenal line taking the clean crack splitting the overhanging prow requiring endurance and power.Gain the crack from below and right by a rising diagonal on good holds.By a process of jamming or more wisely by  the use of small finger jugs left of the crack a big hold can be reached . Although the difficulties ease a bit the prow continues to present a challenge ‘til the final belly flop on top. P. Jenkinson, T. Taylor

Cal-Qaeda*  (E5/6 6a, 20m,14/4/2012)

The wall right of the crack is steep and bold. Start at the centre of the buttress and climb up and left to place some gear at the base of the crack of Regression to the Mean. Move back right to the centre and make a big reach up through the quartz band to the slot hold and possible gear if you can hang in there to place it. Move straight up to the hanging groove and layback to glory on big holds. C Muskett.

Noah the Terrierist (E3 5c, 20m, 2/6/2010)

A good steep climb tackling the flake line on the right hand side of the crag. The gear is difficult to place. P Jenkinson & C Muskett.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Blog at WordPress.com.

Up ↑

%d bloggers like this: