Craig Ddu, Moel Siabod: Guide to Traditional Routes

Moel Siabod Craig Ddu Reference: 698539

New routes

Craig ddu has three distinct sections, the left or south crag with easy slabs on its extreme left side and a wide grassy gully bounding its right northern end . The central section has the massive upper wall with the great leaning ( unclimbed ) prow in its centre and the shorter but overhanging fence post wall below. Beyond a scree gully on its right is the northern crag with giant steps on its far right side.

On the extreme left side of the southern crag are some easy angled slabs with one route recorded in the Meirionnydd guidebook. The steep wall next right has two routes

Callipygian Rondure Wall (E4 6b, 18 m, 28/9/2002)

The centre of the wall has a crack in its top half. Gain this directly from below then fight to its end. A good wire then protects the hard sequence to gain the rounded buttock top.
P Jenkinson, T Taylor

Spiked Wall (E2 5b, 18m, 13/4/2002)

The right side of the same wall follows good jugs in a steep position with good , if spaced , gear. Start by taking the rightwards trending ramp at the base of the wall until about halfway along. Take the wall directly above on good but spaced gear on ever improving holds.
PJenkinson, T Taylor

A Bit on the Side (HVS 5a, 18 m, 28/9/2002)

Although squeezed in just before the gully this is a good steep route on sound rock.Follow the ramp as above but continue past a sapling to its end. Take the left wall of the gully direct.
P. Jenkinson, T.taylor

A Striking decision (E2 5c, 18 m, 28/9/2002)

 

The isolated blocky nose/arete right of the gully is reached via the ramp as above but break out right as soon as possible onto the ledge below the nose. Pull directly up in to the recess below the nose then struggle mysteriously through the steep bulge above to easier climbing.

P.Jenkinson, T Taylor.

25 metres further right is a pale hanging slab above some easy angled rock. Either stroll up the 15 metre lower slab or better traverse in from the right to the junction of the bottom and top slabs.

Whipping up a Frenzy  (E1 5b, 15m, 26/8/2002)

A vertical crack takes off from here , at 3 metres up this pull out right into the smooth rock and make magical moves on small edges to the top. TTaylor, P Jenkinson

At the right hand base of the Calpygean wall complex is a reddish 9 metre wall with 3 routes

Red wall routes

Life without Wife (E3 6a, 9m, 26/8/2002)

Exquisite extended boulder problem at the left end of this short, steep wall. Pop onto the left end of the narrow ledge and using very small crimps on the wall pull directly up to the hand ledge near the top . Rock up to finish TTaylor solo

Singles Party (E1 5b, 9m, 27/2/2002)

The layaway system next right has some positive holds allowing the right end of the final hand ledge to be reached . Rock up. Protectable.
TTaylor solo

Right side(E2 5c, 9 m, 27/2/2002)

The redder bit next right is thin in the middle , but can be protected before the final holds allow an easier finish
PJenkinson, T Taylor

Central gulley.

High up at the back of this laid back broad grassy gulley is a slim tower.

But Noah said No! (VS 4c, 15 m, 27/7/2002)

 

A good , clean line up the centre of this tower. Starts steeply then eases near the top.
P Jenkinson, T Taylor

To the right of the gulley is the middle crag complex with the huge leaning lefthand prow and the lower , leaning compact wall. The 2002 guide describes one route which meanders up through this impressive complex .At its left side is an outstanding sharp arete level with But Noah….

You dance Alone (E2 5c, 18 m, 27/7/2002)

Starts directly below the edge on some slightly dirty rock. Pull up to the base of the edge then commit to layaways which are initially positive then get slopey at the top.
T Taylor, P.Jenkinson

The main prow is unclimbed. Below it is a recessed wall with an obvious vertical crack up its right side. There is a narrow rightwards rising ramp in the left of this wall with a thin vertical seam at its end .

Ground Force (E4 6a, 10 m, 18/3/2003)

Start directly below the seam 2 metres left of Wellington Club.Using small edges and layaways pull boldy up to the base of the seam and the first tiny wires at halfway. The seam then widens to small cam placements past good holds to a difficult finish.
T.Taylor unseconded.

Wellington Club (HVS 5a, 10 m, 28/8/2002)

An enjoyable line up the vertical crack with good holds and good gear and with a big block belay on top. Scramble easily down to the left side from the top.
PJenkinson, T Taylor

Guest Star (E1 5b, 10 m, 18/4/2003)

Just right of the crack take the series of small ledges leading up to good holds and some gear. Pull up directly onto the ramp.
T Taylor, A.Cave, P. Jenkinson

Fence post wall.

 

Next is the wall at the base of this complex the details of which only become evident when close up . At its left end is an orange section that mimics a sport climbing wall in being very compact and pocketed.

The Terminatrix  (E6 6b, 15 m, 17.8.2003)

This perfect line should not terminate you if you have the stamina to hang and place the wires.A right facing groove leads up to the left rising ramp/ledge ( RP in groove ).Have a sort of rest before traversing out right to sinker pockets ( good Wallnut 8 )then pull steeply and directly up the orange juggy headwall.
P.Jenkinson, T.Taylor ( a project of the second but the leader was the strongest on the day)

Right of the orange section is a fabulous rippled gray section, pulling through some very steep and bulging ground.Project

Next right is the fence post by the wall 2 metres left of the central wide crack

Silence in Genin (E3 6a, 15 m, 13/4/ 2002)

Start just right of the post which offers little help in gaining and leaving the tiny recess above . Peg in crack then pull up and right to improving holds and easier ground. Stunning.

PJenkinson, T Taylor

Don’t Upset the Applecart (HVS 5a, 12 m, 13/4/2002)

The big crack in the centre of the wall may have some thin plants which have returned but should not effect the climbing which is strenuous and safe , holds improving all the way to finish leftwards at the top.Good fun. PJenkinson, T Taylor

Heard it on the Applevine (E5 6a, 12 m, 18/3/2003)

A compelling and intimidating line that brings great rewards.Start 2 metres right of Applecart and go directly and boldly up to a small hand ledge and peg. Above the wall steepens further and the very good holds at the top seem faraway.
T. Taylor unseconded.

 

Afghan Black (E2 5b,12 m, 30/2/2002)

Next right , good small edges lead up the ever steepening wall past a thin crack ( small wire ). Pull confidently through the overlap above with two , thin vertical cracks leading to jugs.
T Taylor, P Jenkinson

Red Leb  (E1 5b,10 m,30/2/2002)

Next right is a vague , leftwards -rising ramp. Lovely, technical moves directly above the middle of the thin ramp lead to a break and some gear. Wizard skills required for the final rockover.
PJ TT

Polyfilla (HVS 5b, 10 m, 30/2/2002)

The right end of the wall is bounded by a dirty crack. Just left of this the wall has some vertical black streaks. Tricky and reachy climbing leads direct to a good break. Steeper moves above gain the heather top.A filler-in route. P.Jenkinson, T.Taylor

Right of the dirty crack the wall improves again. A vertical crack is the first feature.

Moroccan Zero Zero  (E1 5b,10 m, 18/4/2003)

Follow the crack on good jams to a ledge.Continue direct to a dirty finish. P.Jenkinson, T.Taylor.

Just right of this is a good , white wall with a small ledge above head height and a tiny pod above .

Road to Perdition (E4 6a, 12 m, 28/9/2002)

Start at the crack below the small ledge and pull onto the ledge . Arrange good gear up and left before committing wildly to the wall directly above the ledge . A horizontal ( rounded ) break then leads rightwards to finishing jugs .
PJenkinson, TTaylor

The next route takes the right hand complex right of the grassy gulley. A shield sits high on its left side and some giant steps from the right hand base.

In its centre is a red streaked slab with a large triangular flake at its base and a blunt nose below that.

Digit the Frigid and the bulky boys  (Vs 4c, 20 m, April 2003)

The left side of the shield is taken by this route which avoids the main difficulties. Start on the slab just beyond a right facing corner and go direct up to the shield.On the left side of the shield is a narrow corner ( crux ) which is followed to a good ledge up left.The final wall is climbed steeply up its center to a good finish.
T.Taylor, J.Appleby, M. Flannery( a cold and very windy day that caused white finger and the need for big coats )

The next route starts at the toe of the reddish steep slab

Redder Leb  (E2 5b, 20 m, 30.2.2002)

Start up the blunt nose below the red streaked slab. From the top of the short nose go straight up the white wall behind to just right of the huge triangular flake. Traverse right to stand on the blocks in the white wall and pull up directly to the blunt nose and easier finish above.
T. Taylor, P.Jenkinson

Siabod lower slab

This is the first slab above the reservoir and is well below the main complex. Approx 9 metres high it has a distinctive small tree top left. Although relatively easy angled on the right side there is a short wall to be breached to gain the left side .The routes are on perfect, high friction, solid slabby rock.

Into Exile (E1 5c, 9 m, 27/7/2002)

The left side of the bulging wall below a rising crack in the slab above is hard to start. Good solid moves pull through onto the slab and easier if bolder climbing above. A bit dirty near the top just right of the tree.
P Jenknison, T Taylor ( PJ vanished north into deep, damp mist heading for Pen Y Gwyrd as night fell ) .

Pristine without Christine (E3 6a, 9 m, 27/7/ 2002)

The excellent , high friction wall immediately right has a hairline vertical crack with one good RP to protect the technical moves needed to get onto the slab . Once up step up left in to a small pod then continue direct on easier ground.

T.Taylor, P Jenkinson

 

Next right is a large flake resting against the slab.

Trust to Thrust ( E1 5b, 9m, 28/02/2002)

Pull easily up the left side of the flake . From its top left edge pull onto the steep slab just right of a lichenous black streak. Follow lovely clean rock up rightwards to the positive finish.
T Taylor solo

Trust no Thrutch (E1 5b 2, 9m, 8/2/2002)

 

Take the right side of the flake until perched on its right top edge. Move out rightwards to one good hold which forms the link for a delicate finish.

T.Taylor solo

Truss distress (VS 4c,8 m, 28/2/2002)

A short but good crack climb following the vertical crack in the right side of the slab. Positive throughout.
T.Taylor solo

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